Commissary: The Flavours Of Southern California Come To Hong Kong

Casual, fuss-free Southern Californian food is what newly opened Commissary is all about. The concept is a mash-up between Yenn Wong (JIA Group) and Morgan McGlone (Belles Hot Chicken in Sydney and Melbourne), so expectations for this newcomer were high. The atmosphere is surprisingly easy-going and the food is a mix of light and hearty colorful dishes, offering diners a handful of items that you won’t see on many (if any) other restaurant menus in Hong Kong.

Vibe At Commissary

Located on the 4th floor of Pacific Place, Commissary has a fairly large outdoor terrace with table and bar seating that make people-watching a breeze. Inside, you’ll find a very relaxed atmosphere with pale yellow furnishing accents. Service was prompt, though some staff seemed slightly out of touch with the menu (giving us an order of fried chicken sandwich and calling it a burger.. twice). Overall, expect a chill vibe where a mix of business diners and casual mall-strollers convene.

Starters

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Deviled Eggs (HK$48)
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Country Ham, Biscuits, Pickles (HK$118)
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Brisket Tamale (HK$108)

I was excited to see Deviled Eggs (HK$48) on the menu at Commissary, as it’s not something you’d typically find on a menu. While I loved the idea of eating this popular potluck party snack in a restaurant, they just didn’t scream “YES” like I had wanted it to. My favourite starter was the Country Ham, Biscuits, Pickles (HK$118); a simple yet comforting spread of cured ham and the best buttery biscuits (that literally had to be taken away from me because I couldn’t stop eating them). I was also curious about the Brisket Tamale (HK$108) with Alabama white sauce. The brisket itself was absolutely delicious and tender, but the tamale on a whole was quite dry (the chef did say the dish was on the dry side and to dip it into the sauce, so I did know what I was getting myself into) and lacked the bold South American flavours I was expecting.

Mains

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Southern Fried Chicken Sandwich (HK$198)
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Shrimp and Grits (HK$158)

I couldn’t resist ordering the Southern Fried Chicken Sandwich (HK$198) with seasoned fries. The fried chicken was absolutely massive (I was regretting pigging out on starters at this point); tender on the inside and perfectly crispy on the outside, though it could have used a bit more seasoning to spice it up. The highly recommended American classic Shrimp and Grits (HK$158) was next on our list. This comforting dish of a polenta-esque base with shrimp and a soft boiled egg on top, received rave reviews from the Americans at our table.

Dessert

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Chocolate Pudding, Salted Caramel (HK$68)
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Red Velvet Cake (HK$68)

To finish off an incredibly filling meal, we ordered the Chocolate Pudding, Salted Caramel (HK$68), which had the perfect balance of richness from the chocolate and the sweet saltiness from the caramel. Since I always make sure I eat out with like-minded (AKA like-stomached) people, we did away with any self control and ordered the Red Velvet Cake (HK$68) with cream cheese icing. My love for cream cheese icing is far too real, so I was stoked to try this. Unfortunately, the icing just wasn’t “cream cheese enough” for me (so picky, I know).

Verdict

I really liked the vibe and concept of Commissary, and think that the price point for food and drink was very reasonable given the location and portion size. That being said, a few dishes lacked a bold enough flavour to make them stand out. I’m sure that once all the little kinks are sorted out (they had only been open for a week or so when I dined here), you can expect Commissary to serve up unique dishes to Hong Kongers that are packed with the full-bodied fresh flavours of Southern California.

Commissary 
Level 4, Pacific Place
Admiralty 
Hong Kong

Tel: 2602 0707

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